reede, 22. august 2008

Captain James Cook watched a canoe surfer in Tahiti in 1769. Cook wrote: "He went out from shore till he was near the place where the swell begins to take its rise; and, watching its first motion very attentively, paddled before it with great quickness, till he found that it overlooked him, and had acquires sufficient force to carry his canoe before it without passing underneath it. He sat motionless and was carried along at the same swift rate as the wave, till it landed him upon the beach. Then he started out, emptied his canoe and went in search of another swell. I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea."

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